X-Factory X-6 – review – RC Tout Terrain 1/10 2wd électrique
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- Introduction, p1
- Présentation, p2
- Conception, p3
- Montage du X-Factory X-6, p4
- Montage (ou démontage) des (...), p5
- Montage des éléments du (...), p6
- Essai du X-Factroy X6 – la (...), p7
- Vidéos de l’essai du X-6, p8
- Associated B4 VS X-Factory X6, p9
- Entretien, pièces d’usure…, p10
- Conclusion, p11
Montage des éléments du X-6
Etape 6 : l’électronique (X-Factory X-6)
Fait étonnant, la première étape de montage du X-6 consiste à placer le servo de direction, le variateur et le récepteur sur le châssis ; c’est plutôt la dernière étape d’habitude !Cette originalité est liée à l’incompatibilité du châssis (reconnus par X-Factory) avec certains produits, pourtant répandus, qui peut se corriger à l’aide d’un cutter ou d’une Dremel.
Les 2 cas d’incompatibilités les plus connus sont :
les servos avec une tête un peu large (tout les Ko 10XX par exemple) ne peuvent être montés à cause de l’ajout de matière placé à l’avant du châssis. La solution consiste à retirer un peu du surplus de matière jusqu’à ce que le servo passe. Une opération assez simple, mais qui pose problème car cette matière a été ajoutée pour fiabiliser la partie avant du châssis, assez fine, qui cassait lors des essais de la phase de test. En retirant de la matière, on augmente le risque de casse…
l’autre problème vient des emplacements dédiés au récepteur et au variateur logés sur chaque flanc. Leur taille un peu trop juste empêche de monter des composants volumineux. Côté récepteur, ça passe sans problème avec un modèle de taille classique, mais côté variateur, on peut avoir de mauvaises surprises. Ainsi, mon Novak GTB ne rentrait pas à 1,5 mm près… Ici aussi, il faut faire appel à la Dremel et meler le châssis sans enlever trop de matière pour ne pas perdre en rigidité…
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Vous l’aurez compris, ces incompatibilités se résolvent facilement, mais on ne peut que regretter que X-Factory n’est pas vérifié davantage la compatibilité de son châssis avec des éléments électroniques répandus !
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Pour cette étape, je vous conseille donc de vérifier la compatibilité de vos composants électroniques avec votre X-6. Une fois les éventuels ajustements effectués, retirez les car les fils et autres câbles gêneront la suite du montage.
Enfin, sachez que le X-6 requiert une configuration un peu particulière des accus en 4+2 et un placement précis des prises PK pour ne pas gêner la platine de fixation.
Vous allez donc devoir recabler vos packs ! même si les configurations en 3x2 où en 6x1 peuvent aussi se monter, vous verrez un peu plus loin pourquoi nous vous déconseillons ces configurations.
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Etape 7 : le train Avant (X-Factory X-6)
Nous allons assembler ici le train avant du B4 au châssis du X-6.Pour cela, il faut avant tout :
vérifier la compatibilité avec votre servo (étape 6) car l’assemblage de la cellule avant rendra l’accès à cette partie plus délicate
ébavurer la matière en trop sur la partie avant du châssis du X-6 qui gène l’assemblage
préparer les pas de vis dans le graphite
ébavurer le sommet de la tour centrale de la cellule avant
Après ces quelques préparatifs, le train avant du B4 se montent parfaitement sur le châssis du X-6, aucun jeu ni aléa à signaler.
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Cependant, des marques bien visibles dans la matière et le rendu de cette pièce nous fait penser qu’elle n’a pas bénéficié de la même qualité de fabrication que le châssis.
Autre remarque, des micros fissures sont apparues sur les 2 montants de la cellule après avoir vissées les vis, les trous d’origines ne sont ils pas assez larges ? et quel sera l’impact sur le long terme ?
A ce sujet, X-Factory vient d’annoncer la disponibilité d’une nouvelle cellule avant fabriquée dans une nouvelle matière et par un nouveau fournisseur et qui dispose d’une surépaisseur de matière tout autour.
Cette annonce est une très bonne nouvelle et démontre l’attention apportée par X-Factory aux retours clientèles.
Etape 8 : partie arrière du châssis (X-Factory X-6)
Cette étape est très rapide, on se contente d’assembler les supports d’axes des triangles arrières et le support de la plaque moteur au châssis.X-Factory a opté pour des supports d’axes à visser au châssis. Je pense que le but de cette solution originale est de leur faire jouer le rôle de fusibles lors des chocs importants et de protéger le châssis.
Autre pièce a assembler lors de cette étape, le T en plastique utilisé pour relier la plaque moteur au châssis bénéficie d’une découpe "à la serpe" ^_^ !
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Etape 9 : La Boîte de Transmission (X-Factory X-6)
On récupère ici le différentiel et les autres éléments de transmission du B4 que l’on va loger dans la boîte spécifique du X-6.La boîte est classique et se compose de 2 parties en plastique moulé dont l’usinage est propre sans plus, et d’une horrible plaque moteur dans un bon vieil aluminium moulé à l’ancienne et super épaisse !
Après avoir monté la boîte, on glisse le slipper et la couronne sur l’axe et on réserve le tout pour la suite.
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Etape 10 : Installation du support d’amortisseurs arrière et de la transmission (X-Factory X-6)
Le moins que l’on puisse dire, c’est que X-Factory n’a pas lésiné sur la taille et la masse des imposants supports d’amortisseurs et d’aileron en graphite.
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L’usinage de ces pièces est globalement bon, malgré un ébavurage de certains trous / pas de vis à revoir et un trou percé en partie seulement sur mon support !
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La transmission se monte après le support d’amortisseurs car elle prend appui dessus. Il faut également enfoncer 4 inserts métalliques dans le châssis par l’envers. Etape périlleuse car j’ai du faire appel au marteau pour finir une saloperie d’insert récalcitrant !
Et je peux vous assurer que ça fait bizarre de donner de grands coups de marteaux sur un châssis tout neuf !!!
Le montage de la boite de transmission est l’une des nouveautés apportées sur le X-6. On peut, en effet, faire varier sa hauteur en jouant sur le nombre et l’épaisseur des rondelles de calages fournies placées sous les 4 vis de fixation de la boîte (4 tailles différentes : 0,30 ; 0 ;60 (hauteur du B4) ; 0,90 et 1,20).
Vu l’accès extrêmement délicat aux vis de fixations de la boîte (surtout celle logée entre la plaque moteur et la boîte), je pense que ce réglage sera très peu utilisé en course par manque de temps.
Accessibilité toujours : pour modifier le point d’ancrage supérieur de l’amortisseur, vous devrez déclipsez votre aileron, dévisser la 1ère vis de chaque support d’aileron.
Ok, c’est pas la mort, mais on a vu mieux.
Attention
la proximité entre la couronne et la sortie de différentiel est minime. Dans le cas présent, nous avions monté une couronne de 81 dents ; attention donc au contact avec une plus grande couronne.
Astuces
cela n’est pas précisé dans la notice, mais je vous conseille de monter les rotules dans le support d’amortisseur avant de monter la boîte de transmission, car l’accès sera beaucoup moins aisé par la suite.
placer une rondelle entre la tête de vis et la boîte de transmission pour chaque vis de fixation.
la vis qui maintient la plaque moteur au châssis via le T se dévisse régulièrement, deux options, soit le frein filet, soit opter pour une vis peu plus longue avec un contre écrou.
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Etape 11 : le train arrière (X-Factory X-6)
On récupère ici les fusées et les cardans du B4 sur lesquels on retire une rondelle de calage entre le roulement et l’entretoise de roues.
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Puis on monte les fusées sur les triangles en inversant leur position par rapport au B4 (Gauche à Droite et inversement).
Les triangles Graphite sont spécifiques au X-6 et bénéficient d’un usinage assez réussi, même si la matière semble identique à celle de la cellule avant.
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Leur rigidité est très bonne. Il dispose de 3 points d’ancrage pour l’amortisseur et X-Factory a eu la bonne idée de reprendre le système de fixation des axes des fusées façon Asso avec la petite vis.
A ce sujet, X-Factory n’a pas suffisamment percé ses triangles (où le trou n’est pas assez large jusqu’au fond). Du coup, l’axe fusée dépasse d’1 mm du triangle, pas terrible…
La solution idéale est de repercer légèrement le triangle (avec le foret qui va bien et sans aller trop loin car sinon vous aurez du jeu). Personnellement, j’ai laissé tel quel et après une dizaine de pack en extérieur, rien n’a bougé.
Dixit Olivier Langlet, cette malformation serait dû à la volonté de X-Factory, dans un premier temps, d’insérer les axes légèrement en force sans fixation particulière, quitte à ce qu’ils dépassent un peu…
Côté châssis, X-Factory fournit des axes de triangles Lunsford en Titane non anodisés pour remplacer ceux du B4.
Le support d’axes des triangles arrières est disponible en 2 versions avec 3° ou 4° de pincement, et il permet également de régler l’anticabrage en plaçant une ou plusieurs rondelles, fournies par X-Factory, entre lui et le châssis.
Attention
en débattement maximum, la tête des cardans sort des noix du différentiel. Il faudra donc faire attention à limiter le débattement des amortisseurs arrières dans certains cas !
Astuce
pour résoudre ce problème de débattement et utiliser ainsi tout les points d’ancrages des amortisseurs, Antoine Rosetti et Olivier Langlet vous conseille de monter les extrémités des cardans MIP pour Losi BK2 légèrement plus longs que ceux du B4, ce qui permet de reculer les cardans dans les sorties de différentiel.
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Etape 12 : Carrosserie, aileron et platine d’accus (X-Factory X-6)
Pour cette étape, nous allons nous attarder sur la carrosserie et l’aileron du X-6.Tout deux proviennent de chez J-Concepts, dont le sérieux n’est plus à démontrer dans ce domaine, et sont protégés par un film de protection bleu. La carrosserie propose une prise d’air pour ventiler le moteur, rien de prévu pour le variateur. Cela ne semble d’ailleurs pas nécessaire car le Novak GTB, dépourvu de ventilateur, était juste chaud après nos packs d’essais et n’a jamais coupé.
Point important comme nous le rappelle Antoine Rosetti, la carrosserie protège bien l’intérieur de la voiture grâce à sa forme identique au châssis baignoire.
Détail amusant, les caches des fenêtres fournis ne correspondent pas à la forme dessinée dans le lexan. Ces nouveaux masques sont plus réussis et donne un côté plus dynamique à l’auto qui en manquait avec la forme originelle des fenêtres, trop réduites.
Attention aux autocollants X-Factory qui ne se pose qu’une fois, si vous loupez votre coup, c’est mort !
A ce propos, je suis assez content de ma première peinture « multicolore », un peu d’autosatisfaction n’a jamais fait de mal ;p
La fixation de la carrosserie se fait par 4 bandes de velcro (fournie) et l’aileron se fixe via 2 clips qui prennent appui sur 2 rondelles en plastique (non fournie) venant plaquer l’aileron sur le support.
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A propos de l’aileron du X-6, X-Factory explique sa taille démesurée, son profil en V et son angle d’ouverture prononcé entre les 2 ailettes par un choix ne misant que sur l’apport en performance de cet élément.
Ainsi une des innovations du X-6 est la présence d’origine de 3 hauteurs de découpes différentes sur l’aileron pour modifier l’appui aérodynamique suivant les circuits. X-Factory préconise d’ailleurs de disposer de 3 ailerons avec une hauteur de coupe différente pour bénéficier du meilleur appui selon les circuits.
Personnellement, je vois dans cet aileron la suite logique de la forme donnée à la carrosserie du X-5, avec cet appui aérodynamique massif sur l’arrière, mais décalé cette fois ci en hauteur.
Pour vous aider à comprendre le gigantisme de la chose, voici côte à côte l’aileron du X-6 à un aileron de Losi XXX :
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Autre élément innovant du X-6, la platine d’accus en Y. Elle est très bien pensée et usinée et permet de fixer efficacement les accus en 4+2 grâce aux cales présentent sous la barre.
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Etape 13 : Les roues (Associated B4)
Bonne nouvelle, comme le X-6 reprend le train avant et les cardans du B4, il est donc naturellement compatibles avec vos anciennes jantes de B4 !
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Etape 14 : Electronique Suite et Fin (X-Factory X-6)
Pour cette ultime étape, nous allons installer les différents éléments électroniques que nous avions déjà abordés à l’étape 6 : le servo se fixe à la façon des 4x2 Losi avec 2 plots sur les côtés et une platine supérieure pour sécuriser le tout.
la puce perso peut se monter sur la platine supérieure du servo d’origine, ce qui est une très bonne idée de X-Factory. D’autant plus que la connexion au récepteur sera aisé car il se trouve juste à côté.
le récepteur trouve naturellement sa place à côté du tube d’antenne
le support du tube d’antenne est pour sa part trop large, il nécessite donc d’apposer une goutte de cyano pour éviter de le voir s’envoler
le variateur se loge dans le dernier emplacement libre et on peut installer la capacité à côté des 4 éléments du pack
les fils reliant ses 3 composants se rangent facilement derrière le servo
enfin le moteur se loge sur la plaque moteur
Astuce
d’origine et contrairement aux châssis 4x4, aucune ventilation n’est prévue dans le châssis pour ventiler le moteur, seul un petit trou dans la carrosserie est prévu pour cette fonction. Antoine Rosetti vous conseille donc de percer un trou sous le châssis si votre moteur chauffe trop fort.
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Notre X-6 finalisé :
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Cet article propose une ou plusieurs Videos de voitures RC
Cet article propose une ou plusieurs Setup Sheet de voitures RC
Accueil \ Essais \
Châssis
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